摘要： 目前针对中国近代服装史的研究成果颇为丰富，但主要集中于研究服装形制与纹样，对于服装产业的研究相对缺乏，尤其是对近代中国军服业的研究更是少之又少。而军服业也是近代服装产业的重要组成部分，也有其独特的行业特征与运行规律。文章以官办和商办军服业为研究对象，基于《北洋官报》《政府公报》《交通公报》《军需杂志》《行政院公报》等一手史料，对国民政府时期官办与民营军服业的规模、区域分布、经营状况与人员组织结构进行了分析。将经济学中市场组织结构的分析方法运用在分析军服业之中，用数据与图例更加直观地说明军服业的市场特征。在分析官办军服厂时，结合当时的历史背景与战争环境，将军服厂的迁徙与战争形势紧密联系起来，得出了近代军服业从无到有、从官督商办、官商合办到官商并举，并逐步规范法制的结论。
关键词： 官办军服业；商办军服业；源起；特征；分析
中图分类号： TS94109
文献标志码： B
文章编号： 10017003（2017）11007508
引用页码： 111302
Abstract： Nowadays， the research results on Chinese modern garment are rich， but mainly focus on clothing shape and pattern. There is relative lack of researches on garment industry， and especially researches on military uniforms industry in modern China. Military uniform industry is also an important part of modern garment industry and it has its own unique characteristics and operation rules. In this paper， the staterun and privatelyoperated military uniform industries were chosen as the object of study， and the scale， regional distribution， management and staff structure of staterun and privatelyoperated military uniform industries in the period of national government on the basis of firsthand historical data such as Beiyang Official Newspaper， Government Gazette， Traffic Bulletin， Military Supplies Magazine， and the Executive Yuan Gazette The analysis method of market organization structure in economics was used in the analysis， and data and the legend were adopted for more intuitive description of the uniform market characteristics. When governmentrun military plant was analyzed， the historical context and war environment were combined to closely connect military plant migration with the war. Such conclusion is drawn that， the development of modern military uniform industry is from nothing to something， from officer supervision and private operation， joint government and private running to equal operation of the government and individuals， and that the legal system slowly becomes better.
Key words： Governmentrun military uniform industry； private military uniform industry； origin； characteristic； analysis
鴉片战争以后，中国饱受帝国主义侵略，为抵抗侵略，清政府开始建设近代化国防。凡生产国防上所需物品的工业均称为军需工业[1]。衣食住行，衣排第一，于官兵而言衣即军服，因此军服属于军需中很重要的一项内容。军服业也是军队后勤供给的重要部门。本文以1926—1949年国民政府执政期间军服业的状况与发展作为研究重点。
1近代军服业的源起
晚清时期，最初的西式军服主要是向国外订购，后因“各国禁售军装”[2]，清政府为了寻找出路，开始自主设军服厂和炮厂。后由于“改换军装需用之数甚多”[3]“各处采办价值既昂运费亦钜”[4]且“塞外严寒一切军服必须因地制宜方为合用”[5]等原因，各省纷纷打着“挽回军装之利权”[6]的旗号奏设军装制造局，以期能够价廉物美，保护利权不外溢。同时通过“延聘东洋教师”[7]，“赴英国购办机器”[8]来解决技术和器械问题。